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As the title states, this will be a budget ITC Civic build. I had posted a question about a DX which was moved to ITB, but it turns out the shell I bought was actually a standard, and not a DX. I am capable of doing all my own labor including welding, so that saves a lot of money. The goal is...

I'm thinking of putting one together for next season. I may do an ITC civic instead though

The GCR has all the Saturns screwed up, almost as if they don'r realize that the SL/SC1 and SL/SC2's came with different engines and transmissions. I would like this cleared up and possibly get the SL1's classified (1996-1999 at least) in ITB. I have all the specs in an email ready to send, just...

All the suspension advice I got from you guys has been excellent, I didn't feel the need to change a thing, the handling is perfect. Let me describe what the car does in a corner, you turn the wheel and the car instantly turn in and the rear end starts to rotate, then all I have to do is stomp...

Do I need a reciept to take advantage of their lifetime warranty? One of the set screws is siezed in one of my coilovers, and I believe I am the 3rd owner of them.

I built a virtual ITB GTI just like my car and took it around Laguna Seca in 1:48.9 (Real track record is 1:50.6 I believe) :eclipsee_steering: :smilie_pokal: so I guess I got its pretty close but optimistic, too bad the replay doesn't show the rear tire lifting, and it's a little fast...But...

Installed the seat, new net (thanks Joeg!), redid the gauges, made many improvements to the wiring, sort of fixed the exhaust (still might get a new one fabbed), almost ready to go but I still have a lot of things to fix but they are mostly small things to improve reliability. More wiring work...

So what does this mean? The car I just bought might be competitive? One thing is for sure, I won't have to put back the 116lbs of ballast that was in the wrong spot, I could just remove the 25lb slab and put back a 50 pound slab that was in the wrong spot.

450# front springs, 350# rear springs, what are good settings for smooth tracks, bumpy tracks, autocross, towing? I assume full soft for towing. The car came with all 4 one full turn from full soft, using the low tech method (bounce the suspension by pushing down on each corner) the rear felt...

I just need some basic setup advice, things like recommended alignment (car has camber plates). corner weights (coilovers with Koni single adjustable), ride height, timing, what fluids are recommended. It's an '84 GTI.

According to Sparco the seat is FIA certified, and according to the rules it doesn't need a back brace...But is this right for such a low cost seat? How do I mount it to the car, the standard Sparco mounts?

I know the GCR says "To factory specifications" however I'm not taking my car to a body shop when I know how to weld, and I'm on a budget here. What I want to know is how strictly tech inspectors look at rust repairs, here is a picture of what my repaired floor looks like now, I cut out the old...

I am the proud new owner of Tim Gelling and Eric Parham's 318 an I am in the process of getting it ready to race, I have a new engine installed and running, and patches welded into the floor. It's going to need a lot more stuff but I have time. Just have a few questions now that I have the car...

For coilovers, what are some recommendations? The minimum weight for the car is 2700lbs. Or how about going the cheap route and running H&R race springs? [This message has been edited by eMKay (edited February 12, 2004).]

Here is the email I sent to the SCCA concerning my situation, I would much rather run the stock 14" wheel size because the tires are much cheaper, and the wheels are lighter. "I am in the process of building a 1995 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS into an ITA racecar, however I noticed a discrepency in...

Climate controls? Uneeded wiring? Climate ducting? Everything but the heater core?

Here's where it stands now. I paid $500 for the car and a blown up engine, the body is very solid and after stripping out the interior I only see a couple areas that need attention. The inside of the rear quarters are showing surface rust, and a couple spots where bolts were in the interior need...

I just bought a 1995 Eclipse RS, the GCR specs call for 16" wheels, I know we can't run larger, but I would like to run smaller wheels than 16" for 3 reasons, weight, gearing, and cost. I already pay top dollar for my autocross tires (HS Protege5, must use stock size 16" wheels) I would rather...

Now I just need a car (got one lead right now). It came to me at Pizza Hut where I doodled on a napkin, came home and sketched it out. [This message has been edited by eMKay (edited January 10, 2004).]