Removing Strut Inserts.....

Ron Earp

Ron Earp

Administrator
I’m trying to replace my worn out and dead front struts on my Z car. The left side strut I removed with no issues – simply took the gland nut off and the strut insert pulled right out.

My right side strut is a different story. It is steadfastly stuck in the strut tube.

I took a nut that fit the top of the strut insert thread and welded that to a slide hammer attachment. Then we wailed on insert with the side hammer until the attachment broke but got no movement out of the insert. It is still stuck in the tube.

I suppose the strut tube must have some slight undetectable bend in it to cause this problem but I don’t have a spare strut tube and Daytona is less than a week away. Anyone have any magic suggestions that might help out?



:shrug:
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Without seeing the particular strut tube arrangement in that car ... is it possible to drill a hole in the bottom and press it out somehow?
 
I think Josh is on the bright track. Drill a hole in the bottom of the strut and wail on it with a flat ended drift. Your slide hammer idea is good, except if it's really stuck you will end up tearing the gizzards out of the insert, and you still have to get the body out by drilling a hole. Another thing to think about. If the strut is bent will the new insert fit back in there anyway? Maybe time to scare up another strut.
 
I've actually seen the sucker and I don't think it is bent. I think it got jammed up on the rigged spacer in the bottom of the tube.

No way to drill the bottom unfortunately -- way too much material at the bottom of the tube.

Ron just called, he's next plant is to put the spring and hat back on with the tube hanging off the car (with a compressor on the spring) and then slowly release the compressor to use the 500 lbs of spring pressure to lift the strut out.

May work. We'll find out tomorrow.
 
any time i run into a problem like this, i generally break out the blow torch and a grinder.... i use the blow torch to heat the metal that is around whatever is stuck (in this case the strut tube) and if and when that doesn't work, i take the grinder to it and get serious ;)

realy, try the torch to heat the outside and make it expand.
 
Common problem on old struts. FSM calls for oil to be added to the strut tube to preven "corrosion" of the insert/tube. Other than slide hammer and heat applied to the tube :shrug:.

I had one that I had to pop the top off of the insert, pull the piston, break out the chisel until I could get the insert housing bent enough to grab it with a BIG pair of vice grips. I was then able to pull it out.

Good luck and add a couple tablespoons of oil to the tube before you insert a new cartridge.
 
Alternately heat the tube, and try to hammer the insert out as others have suggested. I had the same problem with my 260 years ago. Wouldn't budge till I hit it with a torch, and even then it took a couple of hours of heating and wailing away to get the old insert out.

chris
 
It is a sad situation. The Mighty Slide Hammer has never been defeated. Until now.

I heated it a little last night but not as much as I could have. I'll get it good and hot then try again with the hammer. The idea I had about allowing the spring to push it off is hard to impliment in practice due to the size of the spring compressors and the length of the extended strut.

Looks like I'm in for a morning of swearing.
 
I liked the idea of using the spring. How about spacing up the spring off of the lower spring perch somehow?
 
That is what I'm trying to do now with some pipe. Let you know how it works. Seems like a 450lb spring ought to push it out of there.
 
Drill a few holes in the tube but not into the insert, douse liberally with penetrating oil, and let it work.

I've seen it recommended to put engine coolant in the tube before installing the inserts since it's got anti-corrosion properties.

K
 
I had this happen a few years ago with some Tokico Prodra-g struts. I had used the oil trick and it still corroded in place. Lots of penetrating oil, heat, swearing, BFH's, the slide hammer should help. I try to keep a few spares in the shop near the welder because these can be such a bear. One other option is to cut the strut near the bottom and then weld the two parts back together. This is a lot of work, but it lets you disassemble the strut insert and then use a small chisel to collapse the outside of the insert and remove it.

Mike
 
I used silicon grease to improve heat transfer and because it stays in place at high temps. Liberally coat the cartidge before insertion. If doing so produces disgusting sounds and lube is pushed out all around, you have used enough. :o
 
Well, it appears it has a ding in the bottom back side that was really hard to see in the lighting. I think this ding is enough to capture that strut insert. It is going to have to be replaced.

Anyone have a passenger side strut tube they want to sell? I bought a new driver side unit on Ebay for $100. But I don't think the seller has any RH side units, only 11 LH side units. Let me know - I'd need to get it here in NC by Wednesday.

Thanks,
Ron
 
That would be awesome. I can send a UPS label to you via PDF. All you'd have to do is print out and tape on the box. I can send cash via PayPal, check, MO, or bring to Daytona if you're there. Thanks much and if anyone else might have one please let me know.

Ron
 
We will be at Daytona sat. We had hoped to run. Tim finished his two schools (writeup forthcoming), but we lost the motor in the process. We were gonna ring and bearing a spare we had around, but it needs an overbore and we ran outa time. With the field thatsbgoing to be there I don't want to miss the racing. MomsZ (Andy) said he may go as well. I'm really not sure what we have at the shop, but I will check as soon as I can.
 
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Guys, many thanks. Hope we see you down there...

David, what's the difference? This is a 74 260z so I suspect it is "later" but I don't know Z lore enough to know which is which. Ron, can you measure the ID and get it to David?

David you going to Barber? Should be a good field, come on down....
 
The early struts came on the 240 and 260. The 280's are larger in diameter. The rules say that you may use any strut or shock. So there is no rule issue. It depends on the struts you are intending to use. The Koni DA's use the 280 strut. Most Carrera's and Tokico's use the 240 housing. The Bilsteins use 240's with a special gland nut. I have Tokico housings I am taking off my car that are sectioned, with Ground Control lower perches and coil over sleeves welded on. Measuring the insert is also important so you get the right length. Let me or David know, we can help you out.

Mike
 
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