Sentra SE-R

Okay! Well it's been a while since I've posted in my own thread, but that's because we've been busy building a race car. After a long and mostly fun-ish process, the cage, dash, seat, most everything, is done. We have run into a bit of a hurdle though. I know that you have to remove the wheel lock, but as far as we can tell, the wheel lock is inside the ignition assembly. I would've thought that you could unbolt this assembly somehow, but it seems to be fastened with magical fasteners that leave a guy no way of removal.

And so I ask you, you incredibly helpful IT racers that you are: how the heck do I remove the wheel lock on a B13 Sentra? Greg/others with experience with this car, how did you get it done? All suggestions will be rewarded with a sincere and hearty "Thank you!"

I know I said I would get up some pics before, but this time I mean it. As soon as the cage is painted and the seat and belts are in, pictures will be seen by all who wish to see a pretty good looking race car. The suspension isn't on yet, but it has arrived. I have tomorrow off and I plan on doing it then. I ended up going with the Ksport Version RR coilovers. I know a lot of people said they implode after a year, but no one saying that had the RR system to my knowledge. They most definitely won't be used on a daily basis, so I went ahead and took a bit of a chance. The included front camber plates, adjustability, and fact that I could choose what rates I wanted for no extra charge were what sold me. I'll definitely let you guys know if they explode on day 1. :blink:

-Travis- I'll shoot you an email here in a little bit. I was hoping to swing by this Saturday to pick up these tires. I know Easter is on Sunday, but I only live 3 hours away so it would be a day trip for us.

Thanks guys!
 
Two ways I have seen this done, and keep the ignition switch:
1. Remove the switch, cut a section of beer or soda can and wrap it around the column, resinstall the switch. Keeps the lock from going into the hole.
2. Remove the switch, retract the lock, drill 1/8" hole through the whole thing. Drive a 1/8" roll pin through the whole deal. Now it won't move.

I have seen the first used on many cars I have worked on, I have the second on my car.

I was following a lady in the first race of my first school at Lowes Motor Speedway in the early '90's and she lost it going into #1 and hit the tires. She ended up on her side with the roof facing traffic. Fuel pump was still running, but the driver had temporarily shut down. The battery sparked and ignited the fuel and started a fire. The Corner workers couldn't find the shut off, as the ignition had been removed. I finally reached in and shut it off since I had a full suit, gloves, and helmet still on. But remember, this is all prior to mandatory cutoff switches. Caused me to install one several years before they became mandatory, cells too!

Mike
 
Mike Mackaman said:
The Corner workers couldn't find the shut off, as the ignition had been removed....But remember, this is all prior to mandatory cutoff switches.
Click to expand...
Obviously, since they are now mandated along with decals to find them, that's a moot point. Though I do wish we'd standardize on location and style...
 
Well we got to the track and I passed the driver's school! Promptly followed by a catastrophic engine failure and a ball of flame. I'm really hoping that someone somewhere got some pics of the fireball, but my sister took a few pics of the car before and after the boom that I'll put up here as soon as she emails them to me. I just got home and don't have enough time to tell the story right now, but I'll get on that tomorrow probably.

-I just wanted to say that you guys were a great help and really were a big part of us getting the car safe and to the track. You rock!

Greg- I'm planning on sending you an email tomorrow because I am suddenly VERY interested in building a reliable motor (now that we have to put one together :shrug:) and was hoping that you might have some insights there.

Cheers to you guys!
 
Ugh. Yeah, it happens, but it's most definitely preventable, starting with using ARP rod bolts and ensuring rod bearing clearances are good.

Start looking for a good core that doesn't have a spun rod bearing; those can actually be hard to find. Most of the ones you run across are pull-outs for JDM installs, but the reason they're doing that is because they spun a rod bearing...

Send me a note, we'll hook you up. - GA
 
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