Neon weight in race trim?

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Woody

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Does anyone running a retiered SSC car in ITA know how close they are to the minimum weight of #2450? Is it possible? I am converting one to run in SN/ITA and I have all the interior and such removed, I just don't have access to scales right now and was wondering how close the car might be? Thanks in advance for any help.

Dave
 
My SSC logbook shows the car (weighed by previous owners from the Neon Challenge) is already near that weight. I haven't scaled it, but it should be under w/o driver once gutted.

EDIT: Just checked the logbook, and it shows 2320 without driver, as an SSC car! I'm VERY surprised it's that light in stock form, plus a cage. Just doesn't sound right...
 
My 98 acr in street trim,w/1/4 tank,spare tire,stereo,me not in it..2440 lbs...that's a coupe,I've heard the 4 door is slightly lighter ???
 
Hey guys, thanks for the info. Just what I was looking for. Now I have an idea of where I might be. My car has a pretty serious weld in cage that is probably a bit on the heavy side, but it is certainly safe! At least I know that I will be able to get close.

Thanks again guys, after 10 years of formula cars this is my first attempt at a closed wheel car, so I might be asking alot of questions over the winter.

Dave
 
Originally posted by Woody@Nov 8 2005, 09:57 AM
Hey guys, thanks for the info.  Just what I was looking for.  Now I have an idea of where I might be.  My car has a pretty serious weld in cage that is probably a bit on the heavy side, but it is certainly safe!  At least I know that I will be able to get close.

Thanks again guys, after 10 years of formula cars this is my first attempt at a closed wheel car, so I might be asking alot of questions over the winter.

Dave
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If you're anywhere near the St. Louis Area, I've got a set of scales you can rent ;)
 
My SSC car is underweight without fuel. I run the spare tire during enduros because I don't refuel and finish almost empty (a little too close a few times :rolleyes: ) and I have +-6 pounds to spare. I think I could get to around 2300 pounds dry in ITA trim without much effort.
 
My SSC car is underweight without fuel. I run the spare tire during enduros because I don't refuel and finish almost empty (a little too close a few times  ) and I have +-6 pounds to spare. I think I could get to around 2300 pounds dry in ITA trim without much effort.
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I would be interested to here about your enduro experiences. I am converting a SSC car for SN but I am very interested in running the car in ITA in enduro's. :023: Did you find the car to be a good enduro car? Any reliability issues?

Thanks,

Dave
 
Great enduro car! :023: One tank of gas does the job. I would suggest replacing the hubs before and probably after as well. Brake heat can be a problem at certain tracks but Andy Porterfield gave me a solution to that. I haven't had a problem since. Fact is the Hawk and Carbotech pads just don't seem to work for the car and the blue stuff for some reason is not as good as the Motul. The perfect combination turned out to be the Raybestos NASCAR pads and the Motul 650. The only reason I'm sure is I had to put Hawks on last race because that's all I had and sure enough... lost pedal and lotsa' fade. Also make sure you replace the ceramic inserts in the calipers with the Mopar ones. They disintegrate and turn to powder when you least expect it! :119:
 
Originally posted by Mattberg@Nov 16 2005, 07:00 PM
Great enduro car! :023:  One tank of gas does the job. I would suggest replacing the hubs before and probably after as well. Brake heat can be a problem at certain tracks but Andy Porterfield gave me a solution to that. I haven't had a problem since. Fact is the Hawk and Carbotech pads just don't seem to work for the car and the blue stuff for some reason is not as good as the Motul. The perfect combination turned out to be the Raybestos NASCAR pads and the Motul 650. The only reason I'm sure is I had to put Hawks on last race because that's all I had and sure enough... lost pedal and lotsa' fade. Also make sure you replace the ceramic inserts in the calipers with the Mopar ones. They disintegrate and turn to powder when you least expect it!  :119:
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The pedal goes to the floor on my Neon, yet they work fine if you press hard enough. We've bled them several times but the issue remains. We suspected a bad master, so I'm installing it tomorrow. We have Hawk pads, but I'm not sure which compound. Are you saying it could be the pads and/or fluid causing our problem?
 
I replaced the master cylinder today but the pedal is still long and spongy...long as in still goes to the floor. I have Hawk Blues on the car and I'm using Motul 600. A friend of mine had the same problem with his ITS RX-7 and replaced the same Motul fluid with AP 600 and voila!, problem solved. Could it be the brake fluid, or maybe the calipers?
 
Originally posted by Matt Ferratusco@Nov 20 2005, 01:03 AM
I replaced the master cylinder today but the pedal is still long and spongy...long as in still goes to the floor.  I have Hawk Blues on the car and I'm using Motul 600.  A friend of mine had the same problem with his ITS RX-7 and replaced the same Motul fluid with AP 600 and voila!, problem solved.  Could it be the brake fluid, or maybe the calipers?
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Call Andy Porterfield and ask for the same package he sent me (Matt Weisberg, Ft. Lauderdale, FL). You're having all the problems I did. Haven't had them since until I had to put the Hawk pads on for that one race, not to mention they ripped apart a rotor. Just too aggressive.
 
Are the caliper pistons in good shape? Are the caliper sliders in good shape? Are the pads new? Is the pedal long only when you push on it when you are not moving? The pad is usually not the cause of a long pedal. If the pad is deflecting then yes, but that rarely happens with a new set.
 
Originally posted by Matt Ferratusco@Nov 19 2005, 09:03 PM
I replaced the master cylinder today but the pedal is still long and spongy...long as in still goes to the floor.  I have Hawk Blues on the car and I'm using Motul 600.  A friend of mine had the same problem with his ITS RX-7 and replaced the same Motul fluid with AP 600 and voila!, problem solved.  Could it be the brake fluid, or maybe the calipers?
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Or more likely, something in the line with the fluid (air).
 
We've bled the entire system several times so there's no air in the lines. I'm going to pick up a rebuild kit for the calipers, I'm sure they're due. The pedal is long whenever the car is on, moving or not. When the car is off, the pedal will build up firm pressure, but when you start the engine it goes to the floor.
 
Originally posted by Matt Ferratusco@Nov 20 2005, 07:56 PM
We've bled the entire system several times so there's no air in the lines.  I'm going to pick up a rebuild kit for the calipers, I'm sure they're due.  The pedal is long whenever the car is on, moving or not.  When the car is off, the pedal will build up firm pressure, but when you start the engine it goes to the floor.
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Make sure you get the metal ones. The ceramic ones are crap.
 
Wait...you said the pedal will get hard when sitting(engine off ?? ) and soft when engine on ??? It could be the vacuum booster.
 
Time to play the rules nerd here. If you decide to run anything other than the production caliper pistons, then you would be cheating! I personally don't care, but some might. Keep in mind that the phenolic pistons are better for heat transfer ( no boiled fluid! )

It is true that the pedal will seem longer with the engine running. Have you actually seated the pads on the rotors?
 
Originally posted by Woody@Nov 7 2005, 01:19 PM
Does anyone running a retiered SSC car in ITA know how close they are to the minimum weight of #2450? Is it possible?  I am converting one to run in SN/ITA and I have all the interior and such removed, I just don't have access to scales right now and was wondering how close the car might be?  Thanks in advance for any help.

Dave
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Our cars will be scaled shortly and I'll let you know what we come up with. We have 3 ITA Neons at our shop. Making the weight isn't a problem.
 
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