Panhard vs. Watts???
- Thread starter miketrier
- Start date
IMO, a properly designed Watts linkage is better than a panhard bar on a road race car.
There isn't any side-to-side motion on a watts linkage through the travel IF the links are the same length and parallel to eachother at ride height.
The advantages of the panhard bar are: Ease of fabrication. Cost (fewer rod-ends). You can easily adjust your roll center by lower/adjusting the mounting locations.
The disadvantage of the panhard bar is the axle will move side-to-side through its' travel. A 40" long bar will move .112" to one side in 3" of travel.
[This message has been edited by Quickshoe (edited January 20, 2003).]
There isn't any side-to-side motion on a watts linkage through the travel IF the links are the same length and parallel to eachother at ride height.
The advantages of the panhard bar are: Ease of fabrication. Cost (fewer rod-ends). You can easily adjust your roll center by lower/adjusting the mounting locations.
The disadvantage of the panhard bar is the axle will move side-to-side through its' travel. A 40" long bar will move .112" to one side in 3" of travel.
[This message has been edited by Quickshoe (edited January 20, 2003).]
lateapex911
Super Moderator
You might want to look up a guy named Jim Susko, who owns G-Forge Engineering, a company specilaizing in suspension modifications on 1st gen RX-7s. He "invented" the Tri link, and has done lots of high level tninking about the whole handling package that the RX-7 embodies.
I think that before you make the decision, you should think about your car as a whole....how the changes made to the front affect the roll centers, and the same for the back. The key is to be balanced.
Look him up at : http://www.gforceengineering.net/ and tell him Jake sent ya!
------------------
Jake Gulick
CarriageHouse Motorsports
ITA 57 RX-7
New England Region
[email protected]
[This message has been edited by lateapex911 (edited January 20, 2003).]
I think that before you make the decision, you should think about your car as a whole....how the changes made to the front affect the roll centers, and the same for the back. The key is to be balanced.
Look him up at : http://www.gforceengineering.net/ and tell him Jake sent ya!
------------------
Jake Gulick
CarriageHouse Motorsports
ITA 57 RX-7
New England Region
[email protected]
[This message has been edited by lateapex911 (edited January 20, 2003).]
moto62
New member
Yeah! Like Jake said. However, if you choose not to, I've tried both panhard and watts. I really prefer the panhard because one of the biggest problems in a 1st gen 7 is binding. Even a heim jointed watts link does not cure this problem. The panhard changes a lot of the rear geometry(like Quickshoe said) and virtually eliminates rear end binding. Put one of these things on and your 7 will actually develop a little push. If you choose panhard, follow mounting(gussetting) instructions carefully
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Ray Lee Chee
[email protected]
Stamford,Ct
lateapex911
Super Moderator
Like Ray said!
(Assumig you're discussing this relative to the 1st gen RX-7)
There are actually TWO rear axle binding issues that arise when we lower the 1st gen RX-7 for racing. Changing over to a panhard rod will eliminate one of them and will change the whole roll center and balance issues dramatically.
But the other binding aspect will affect the axle as well as the driveshaft and joints.
When the shop is warm, put the car on stands, and take out the rear springs. Now raise and lower the axle through it's lowered ( racing) range of motion. You'll see how the various parts fight themselves.
------------------
Jake Gulick
CarriageHouse Motorsports
ITA 57 RX-7
New England Region
[email protected]
(Assumig you're discussing this relative to the 1st gen RX-7)
There are actually TWO rear axle binding issues that arise when we lower the 1st gen RX-7 for racing. Changing over to a panhard rod will eliminate one of them and will change the whole roll center and balance issues dramatically.
But the other binding aspect will affect the axle as well as the driveshaft and joints.
When the shop is warm, put the car on stands, and take out the rear springs. Now raise and lower the axle through it's lowered ( racing) range of motion. You'll see how the various parts fight themselves.
------------------
Jake Gulick
CarriageHouse Motorsports
ITA 57 RX-7
New England Region
[email protected]
