Rear Z Drums

Carbotech shoes are painted green (kind of a British racing green). They also have a big price tag on them. But you guys are missing something about the Z.. The brakes are NOT the primary source of deceleration for that car. HINT: If you use the PRIMARY brakes too hard you might throw off a rocker arm..............
 
Parrish57 said:
Carbotech shoes are painted green (kind of a British racing green).If you use the PRIMARY brakes too hard you might throw off a rocker arm..............
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Like someone I know did at CMP............lol

Do they make rear shoes that don't smoke the entire race? ..........lol

Sorry Steve............ I just had to rub it in.......
 
I remember using Velvet Touch rears. We sent them out to be re-lined once a year whether they needed it or not. I ran my Z from 1990 to 2001 using them with no problems and they worked great. I wonder if those are still an option? I would be willing to call the shop that had them done for me to see about them. As I remember, a set of shoes cost about $40.
 
Fellow Z guys: When one is seeking the knowledge of all things Z related you must climb the mountain (use the search function) and speak to the master (Katman)
I'm surpised he hasn't chimed in yet. In this thread Keith gives some hints about getting the most out of your rear brakes.
http://www.improvedtouring.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18891&highlight=brakes
Look at post #8 for some tips and #14 for adjusting the prop valve.
I swear there was another thread with more stuff but couldn't find it. Anyhow cliff notes: make sure drums and shoes are round (true) and adjusted properly. Use the ebrake to take up slack during the race.
Chris: you wanna adjust them out with a brake spoon until the wheel (jacked off the ground) becomes pretty hard to turn by hand. This will give the pedal a nice high firm feel.
I've got the Porterfield ones. Friendly folks! Jeff is right about the compound - R4 is race only (won't work so great on the street) R4-S is a street compound
 
"until the wheel (jacked off the ground) becomes pretty hard to turn by hand."

Thats the concrete info I was looking for. Is it safe to assume then that if you adjust them a little too tight the friction material will just wear down a bit more quickly?
How is your car coming along Andy? It was good to meet you at the regional in Feb. Tim asked in another thread, but we hope to see you at the Daytona school. For us it depends on how our initial annual tech goes this weekend. If we get the thumbs up we will be there. By the way my uncle does have two non-egr FI manifolds (n-42 I think) if you still needed one. Crossing my fingers that we will see you in two weeks.

chris
 
mom'sZ said:
Chris: you wanna adjust them out with a brake spoon until the wheel (jacked off the ground) becomes pretty hard to turn by hand. This will give the pedal a nice high firm feel.

I've got the Porterfield ones.
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Don't try that with a Carobtech shoe...
 
JeffYoung said:
You'll never get the drum off again if you do that.
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Sure you will, just call the "Jeff Young Literary Society and Brake Center" and they will help you "Jeff it up" and remove that bonded drum. He and Ron are highly experienced in drum removal!
:happy204:

I have been adjusting mine like I did on my street Z, when the drum/pad are touching and I feel resistance I then back the star wheel off 1/3 to 1/2 turn. Drive the car down the street, test the brakes, and then do it again. Of course I failed to adjust mine between qualifying and race at CMP and about 6 laps into the race my pedal was all "jeffed up."
 
spawpoet said:
How tight with a carbotech shoe then Ty? I assume the reason not too is that with the carbotech it will render the drum permanent with the hub?
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Permanent with the drum, that would be the reason. I don't think you need to ask me how I know, even after Katman warned me. :eek:

Pb got it right on the adjustment, you can always go a little tighter next session if it is too loose this time. If you start out too tight make sure you have a big soft head hammer in your tool box along with a die grinder and a whiz-wheel.
 
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Excellent information, thanks for all the tips and the links to the other threads.

I called Carbotech and ordered three sets of shoes, but they won't make it here in time for Roebling. Does anyone have a spare set of shoes I they'd be willing to send me that I could get from you before Roebling to put on? I could then send you a new set in about 2-3 weeks when mine come in. I could make is simple by emailing you a UPS label, all you'd have to do is print it out and tape it to a package.

Carbotech is backlogged pretty good. I bought a lot of front pads a month or so ago so if anyone is short pads I could advance you a set of those if you have some on order and can't get them in time.

Best,
Ron
 
We may Ron, but I won't know for a few days as I won't be in the shop. I'll email you if we have an extra set, but it might not be til Friday.
 
x-ring said:
Permanent with the drum, that would be the reason. I don't think you need to ask me how I know, even after Katman warned me. :eek:

Pb got it right on the adjustment, you can always go a little tighter next session if it is too loose this time. If you start out too tight make sure you have a big soft head hammer in your tool box along with a die grinder and a whiz-wheel.
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Thanks Ty. This should help us avoid the issue in the future.
 
Shoes....

I gotta couple extra sets Ron.....

Wait, You need brakes at savannah??:eclipsee_steering:

I'll bring a bout wore out set Ron. Should last the weekend. I got a old set I'll be running.

David Spillman
 
Thanks guys, Steve called my cell and I'm going to borrow a set of his shoes while my new ones come in from Carbotech. I know Roebling isn't much for brakes, but I've got new fronts and might as well have new rears to bed in on the test day. Maybe they last longer that way - I for sure as hell know putting them on new and racing them hard seems to make them have short lifespan. Killed a new set of Carbotechs at CMP like that....
 
I have had pretty good luck adjusting until I get a little drag when turning the drum. The thing that you are missing on the front brake bias deal is that you will then push down harder on the pedal. Once you reach the same pressure to the fronts you had before, the pressure to the rears is higher. As the apex comes screaming at you, pushing down harder becomes increasingly easier, and more natural. This is all theory, you won't find this on my car. One thought though, some pads have higher and lower friction coefficients than others. If you have a really grippy front pad, you will lock the fronts before the rears are doing a lot. If you get a less grippy pad, then you will need to back off the rears.

I like the Hawk blues in front and carbotek celated in the rear. I like the Carbotek pads better, but the friction is too high and it messed up my rear braking, like I go fast enough to worry about that!

Mike
 
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